Tuesday, August 3, 2010


WAYS IN GARDENING

Green gardening is a confusing term. Gardeners talk about their love of nature, but in reality what we’re doing is manipulating nature and short of growing a field of weeds, it will remain so. So the easiest way to garden greener is to work more cooperatively with nature. Here are 5 easy steps to make your garden greener.

1. Stop Fighting Your Site
Take a good, objective look at where you are gardening. Many gardeners skip right over the site evaluation. They know they want an English cottage garden, or sun loving tropical plants or maybe an alpine rock garden. Many of us want to try a little of everything.
If you are constantly adding lime or sulfur to your soil, if you have to fertilize every week, if watering takes up more of your time than gardening and if you are constantly wondering why, despite these efforts, your plants aren’t thriving, there’s a good chance you are trying to grow the wrong plants.

What Should You Do?:
Have your soil tested. At the very least, know what the pH is and whether it’s quick draining sand, hard baked clay, rock ledge or something in between.
Watch for sun exposure patterns. At what time does the sun reach your garden bed, how long does it linger, is there anything blocking full exposure and when does the sun leave the area.
Call the Master Gardeners at your local Cooperative Extension office and ask for a list of plants that are recommended for your area and then select the ones that are suited to your site. Give particular emphasis to plants native to your area.
Put plants where they will be happy. Shade lovers will waste water in the sun. Sun lovers will languish in shade and attract problems and pests. Acid lovers will never get enough nutrients if planted in a high pH... A plant grown in inhospitable conditions will demand more and more attention.

2. Focus on the Soil
The old organic gardening adage, "Feed the Soil and Let the Soil Feed the Plants", does so much more than reward you with great looking plants. There’s more going on in the soil than expanding plant roots. There’s a whole world in there, teaming with life forms that contribute to one another. Synthetic fertilizers may provide a quicker fix, but a healthy soil can sustain itself and your plants for the long run.
If you are growing annual flowers or vegetables, you are going to need some supplemental feeding during the growing season. It’s exhausting to keep blooming and producing without a rest. But that doesn’t mean you can’t still use an organic fertilizers that will contribute something to the soil while feeding your plants. Synthetic quick fixes are like a having a cup of coffee after you’ve pulled an all-nighter. You think you’re fine, but your body knows better.

What Should You Do?:
Get a complete soil test. Find out what nutrients are missing in your soil and add amendments accordingly.
Enrich the soil before you plant your garden. At the very least, add 3-4 inches of decaying organic matter and work it into the top couple of inches of soil.
Till the soil as little as possible. Tilling breaks up the soils structure and disturbs the organisms living in it. Of course, if your soil is too hard to plant in, some tilling will be necessary.
Side dress established plants with compost or composted manure. This will slowly replenish the soil where you needs it most - by the plant’s roots.
Don’t leave the soil uncovered, so that rain and erosion can wash away nutrients and weed seed can take hold. Use a layer of organic mulch around plants and plant a cover crop on beds that are left fallow.

3. Put Down the Sprayer
Perhaps the easiest thing we can do to garden greener is to stop trying to spray away every problem. Worse still is when we spray without knowing what the problem is.

What Should You Do?:
Identify the problem - or even if it is a problem - before you try to fix it. Walking through and checking your gardens daily will alert you to small problems before they get out of hand. One or two chewed leaves are to be expected. Look for the cause before you pull out the big guns. If you see a colony of insects or an egg sack, then take appropriate measures. That might mean simply removing the egg sack.
Know if it’s an insect or a disease. A good dose of fungicide may poison an insect, but no amount of insecticide is going to cure a fugal disease. And some insects are good for the garden, so you don’t want a spray that is going to kill everything in its way.
More is not better. Read and follow label directions. Even organic pesticides can be dangerous if over used.

And the final 2 Top Ways to Garden Greener are...
Share a Green Gardening Tip of Your Own
I’m sure many of you have a few great green gardening tips you’d like to pass along. If you’d like to share a tip, please do. Here’s a tip submission form, to make it easy for you.

4. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Let’s face it, there are a lot of leftovers when you finish planting. In particular, there are all those empty pots and cell packs, not to mention the plastic bags the mulch comes in. Even before you get outdoors, there’s the pile of seed catalogs you’ve finished with for the year.
Alternative materials will help to some degree and recyclable or biodegradable are good options. But we need to start by reducing the amount of stuff required to get our gardens planted in the first place.
If it’s not compost-able, it should be recyclable. I’m sure that when 90% of the population was employed in agriculture, we were a lot more thrifty. Here are some ways to get us thinking about more responsible disposal of our leftovers.

What Should You Do?:
Compost. This sounds like a no-brainer, but every year I’m amazed at the piles of leaves raked to the curb for pick-up. It takes no more effort to compost than to bag leaves for pick-up. As they say, compost happens. It makes no sense to spend hundreds of dollars buying mulch and fertilizer when you are throwing away the free stuff.
Clean and reuse cell packs for seed starting ext year. If you don’t start seeds, check with local nurseries and find out which ones will accept your used cell packs. Or find a local youth gardening program that’s in need of more pots.
Use larger nursery pots for container gardening. You can hide them behind your more attractive pots, where no one will see them, and save a bundle. Or spray paint them with one of the wonderful new faux stone paints. They look convincing and are much lighter to move around.
Biodegradable pots can be expensive, but you can make your own from old newspaper. They almost start decomposing before you have a chance to plant them.
Use the rest of your old newspaper as a soil moistener. Add shredded newspaper to the bottom of plant containers. They soak up the extra water that would drain off and hold some of it until the soil is able to take in more.
Consider having mulch and soil delivered by the yard, instead of buying dozens of plastic bag fulls. There is a fee for delivery, but it is often offset by the much cheaper price of buying in bulk. And if you have your own truck, most businesses have designated hours where you can pick it up yourself.
Save the branches you prune in the spring to reuse as plants stakes in the garden. They look more natural and the dark color helps them disappear when the plants grow over them. Bushy branches work especially well at holding up floppers.
Do more seed and plant shopping online. You can log onto the free service CatalogChoice.org and have your name removed from companies you no longer want catalogs from.

5.Take the Focus off the Lawn and Limit the Hardscaping
A lush, green lawn and an extravagant outdoor room for entertaining have become symbols of success. Unfortunately they both contribute greatly to pollution, run-off and flooding and ecological imbalance. It’s not that turf grass and stone are bad materials, it’s the way we use and care for them.

What Should You Do?:
Less lawn is good. Less emphasis on the perfect, weed-free lawn is better. Lawn paths and play areas will always be a part of our landscapes. But that doesn’t mean we have to douse them with chemicals and fertilizer every spring. Start by planting grass seed that’s appropriate for your sun exposure and lawn usage. Kentucky Blue grass is pretty, but in most places it’s a water hog and a pest magnate.
Use organic lawn care products. They’re safer for your family, your pets and the environment. (You won’t see yellow flags on your lawn after an organic feeding.) Organic lawn care won’t destroy the eco-system of the soil, so you’ll have less pest problems. There is no chemical run-off into the storm drains and eventually into your water supply. Once your lawn becomes accustomed to organic care, it’s cheaper and much less work to maintain it. Check out SafeLawns.org for help getting your lawn off of chemicals.
Don’t mow so often. Aside from all the very expensive gas you won’t be using, letting your lawn grow to a height of about 3" will result in healthier grass. It will be better able to handle periods of drought and the thicker cover will crowd out weeds.
Talk with someone knowledgeable in landscape architecture before you start paving and hardscaping. The less soil available for drainage, the less the water is purified before it makes its way back into the watershed. Also keep in mind the materials used to clean and seal your outdoor flooring. What goes into the ground eventually makes its way back to us.

BASIC ELECTRICITY

Basic electricity is described in many ways. When an electric circuit flows through a conductor, a magnetic field (or "flux") develops around the conductor. The highest flux density occurs when the conductor is formed into a coil having many turns. In electronics and basic electricity, a coil is usually known as an inductor. If a steady DC current is run through the coil, you would have an electromagnet - a device with the properties of a conventional magnet, except you can turn it on or off by placing a switch in the circuit.
Electrical CurrentCurrent is a flow of charge. Each electron carries a charge of 1.6 × 10-19 coulombs. This is far too small to be any use, so we consider electricity to flow in packets called coulombs. When there is a flow of 1 coulomb per second, a current of 1 amp is flowing. Current is measured in ampères, or amps (A).

VOCABULARY:

circuit a closed loop of conductors through which charges can flow
conductor a substance through which electrical charges can easily flow
current a flow of electrical charges
generator a device for producing electrical current by moving a coil of wire in a magnetic field
insulator a material through which electric charges cannot move
ion an atom that has gained or lost one or more electrons and is thus a charged particle
switch a device that closes or opens a circuit, thereby allowing or preventing current flow
voltage the pressure behind the flow of electrons in a circuit.

CIRCUITS

Materials:

1. solid wire
2. flat nose plier
3. small bulb
4. board
5. switch
6. small recieptacle
7. battery pack
8. star volt
9. driller
10. electrical tape
11. battery

Procedure:

1. Gather all the materials needed.

2. Make a small hole on the board for bulb to put in.

3. from the possitive side of the switch, connect it to the possitive side of the battery pack.

4. from the battery pack, conncet it to the possitive side of the bulb.

5. the same as trough for the negative side.

6. attach it to the board by the use of star volt.

7. put the battery on the battery pack

8. switch on. MY BEST CHOICE: This is my best choice, because it can help people to be more aware on how the electricty flow in one circuit.

FISHERY ARTS (TLE21)

Fishery is an entity engaged in raising and/or harvesting fish, which is determined by some authority to be a fishery. According to the FAO, a fishery is typically defined in terms of the "people involved, species or type of fish, area of water or seabed, method of fishing, class of boats, purpose of the activities or a combination of the foregoing features". The definition often includes a combination of fish and fishers in a region, the latter fishing for similar species with similar gear types. A fishery may involve the capture of wild fish or raising fish through fish farming or aquaculture. Directly or indirectly, the livelihood of over 500 million people in developing countries depends on fisheries and aquaculture.
Aquaculture is the farming of freshwater and saltwater organisms such as finfish, mollusks, crustaceans and aquatic plants. Also known as aquafarming, aquaculture involves cultivating aquatic populations under controlled conditions, and can be contrasted with commercial fishing, which is the...

Freshwater Fish Farming Ventures
Commercially, one can grow freshwater fish for sale to restaurants and supermarkets. But he can also breed fingerlings for supply to commercial fish growers, recreational pond owners and hobbyist; grow fish for sale as bait; and raise mature fish for sale to pet shops. The culture of fish, whether as food or ornamental article, can also be pursued as a hobby.
Freshwater Fish Selection
The fish that one should choose to rear must meet certain attributes that should make it ideal for rearing. For a starter, it is wise to follow the advice of experts and choose the species that experts say grow well in the place’s kind of water and climate. The most commonly chosen fish for farming in the U.S. include rainbow trout, channel catfish, bass, minnow, and crayfish.
Control of Fish Farming ConditionsIn terms of input, fish farming could range from extensive, intensive to highly intensive. At the low end of the range is farming that has low financial and labour input. Stocking density is low and the fish is left to nature for sustenance. At the high end is farming that involves high level of capital and labour investment. Stocking density is high, requiring the aid of equipment to maintain pond operation. Fish production is proportional to the amount of input a farmer puts into the operation.TIPS FOR A GOOD FRESHWATER FARMING (SHRIMP).
Here are tips for pond operators who would like to try freshwater shrimp farming.

1. Prepare the pond properly so that no predators like catfish and goby are present.

2. Fill the pond to a water depth of at least 0.6 meter.

3. Fertilize the pond with dried chicken manure in sacks suspended in the water at 500 kilos per hectare every two weeks to promote the growth of plankton.

4. Procure your initial M idella breeders (5-10 grams) from local sources and stock at the rate of 2-4 per square meter with a sex ratio of 1-2 females per male (bigger in size with longer arms).

5. Provide brush shelters (made of bamboo or tree twigs) or allow the growth of submersed aquatic weeds like digman to serve as refuge for the shrimp when molting (shedding of shell) and increase surface area for growth of food organisms.

6. Culture it for at least four months.
My best choice: This is my best choice, because it could help people whom really want to enter business.

Ladies Skirt

Tools and Materials needed:

1½ meter cloth
thread
sewing machine
cutting tool
measuring tools
pencil

Procedure:

Step 1Take a measurement of the person for whom you are making the skirt. Essentially, you will require waist and length measurements. Such skirts look best long, when knee-length or longer, so take a measurement accordingly.

Step 2Pick the fabric of your choice from your favorite store and cut it as per the measurement, This step can be as slow as you need. The cutting has to be done while keeping some buffer fabric for the sewing. So make sure you make no mistakes there.

Step 3Now sew the skirt. Try keeping a nice pattern at the bottom. You could try an arc or a downward facing triangle. You can try experimenting, but try not to go overboard. Leave the top 3 inches on one side unstitched. You can put a button or Velcro seal at this part. This is to aid the wearing comfort.

Step 4Now we start of with making this skirt a "poodle skirt". Take a print out of a poodle on an iron-on-paper.

Step 5Place the paper face down on the skirt and iron on it. This will leave the poodle's image on the skirt. Be careful at this step. Make sure you place the picture in the right place, no mistakes allowed here.

Step 6You can add a few embellishments like sparkle or straps or laces to make the skirt look cuter. The beauty of making your own skirt is that you can make just the way you like it!

Boneless Bangus

Equipments:

cutting board
knife
utility tray
basin
mosquito forceps

Preparation:


1. Washing. Wash fish upon arrival from the market. Scales may or may not removed.

2. Splitting. Split fish on the dorsal side starting from the tail to the head by running the edge of the knife along the backbone.

3. Removal of internal organs. Lay fish open like butterfly fillet. Remove gills and internal organs. Wash fish to remove blood and dirt. The black membrane covering the belly cavity may or may not be removed depending upon the consumers choice. Wash fish in running water

4. Removal of backbone dorsal fin. Remove backbone by laying fish flat on the cutting board with the skin down. Hold the knife in a horizontal/slanting position and cut in with the tip of the blade along the backbone from the head to tail. Trim off the dorsal fin.

Deboning Proper

It is important to know the exact location of the spines most especially the the intermascular spines.


Total number of spines 196-208(don’t be silly. don’t count the spines. I just put it for illustration purposes:-). Place fish in the shallow tray. With the end of the mosquito forceps, start removing the spines.


1. Rib bones. The bones are located in the belly cavity. They are visible and superficially embedded thus easy to pull out.


2. Dorsal intermascular spines. Make a superficial slit from head to tail along the dent of the dorsal muscle. Pull out the embedded intermascular spines one at a time.The spines on the head portion are branched spines while the rest are unbranched. The spines on the tail portion are very much attached to the muscle tendon, making it difficult to remove. It is necessary to make a horizontal slit on this portion for easier removal of these spines.

3. Lateral intermascular spines. Area located in-between the dorsal and ventral muscles. Pull out first the large arch-shaped spines at the base of the operculum. Proceed puling out the Y-shaped spines up the mid-portion of the body ending with 3 single delicate spines.

4. Ventral intermascular spines. Make a shallow slit along the dent between the muscle segments of the ventral side and mid-portion of the body to the tip of the muscle in the tail. Pull out the first 2 very fine and delicate spines found in the mid-body which is the start of the spines located in this portion. Proceed to the tail region.

After the deboning, you can start marinating the deboned bangus. In my case, I usually put vinegar, minced garlic, salt and pepper. Put it in the refrigerator for 2-4 hours then fry your own homemade boneless bangus. Serve with white rice or fried rice. Good for breakfast with minced tomatoes.

SPECIAL BAM-I

Ingredients:

• Mie noodles or spaghetti

• 2-3 Tablespoons of vegetable or peanut oil

• 5-10 cloves of garlic, minced

• 1 large white onion, finely sliced

• 4-8 Chicken bouillon cubes (can use vegetable bouillon cubes too) this adds salt to the recipe

• 1-2 cups of brown sugar

• 1 cup of Ketsap Manis (a very sweet soy sauce – can use regular soy sauce and increase amount of brown sugar instead)

• 1 cup of finely chopped Selderie leaf (leaves look a bit like cilantro but taste and odor is very much like celery, since it’s a leafy version of celery – means you can also just use regular celery leaf if that’s all you can find)

• (optional) 1 cup of thinly sliced scallions

• (optional) Peanut sauce (as used with Satay)

Procedure:

1. Cook 2lbs of mie or spaghetti al dente, rinse with cold water to stop it from cooking and to remove excess starch. Set aside.

2. In a wok, add oil, cook the garlic and onion until the onion turns glassy but before the garlic starts to get really brown

3. After the garlic & onions start cooking, but before they reach the end phase in the above paragraph, add the bouillon cubes, mash them down to help them dissolve in the oil

4. Add brown sugar, stir

5. As soon as the resulting mixture starts to bubble brown (means that caramelization is imminent), add the Ketsap Manis, stir

6. Immediately add the spaghetti, and use two long forks (BBQ forks work well for this) to start stirring/tossing the spaghetti to both heat it up as well as distribute the mixture thoroughly throughout the noodles, which should become evenly colored – a nice brown color.

7. Continue this mixing/tossing until the noodles are nice and hot and then add the scallions if you want them. Stir some more and then add the selderie leaf.

8. Remove from heat and serve with optional peanut sauce and grilled oriental style (soy-based marinade or teriyaki) chicken, and perhaps some sambal (spicy pepper relish, also Indonesian).

MOCHA CHIFFON CAKE
With fresh strawberries



EQUIPMENT & INGREDIENTS:


1 Stand mixer (or hand mixer)1 baking/cooking scale1 10-inch Tube pan (Also known as a Chiffon or Angel food cake pan)1 Baking pan
Ingredients:
120g egg yolks (6 medium size egg yolks)90g sugar A.120g water120g olive oil15g coffee extract (espresso)2g vanilla extract180g cake flour7g baking powder320g egg whites (about 10 medium size egg whites)120g sugar
For Chantilly cream300g heavy cream30g sugar5g orange liqueur
For toppingfresh strawberries
HOW TO MAKE

1. Separate egg yolks and whites. The way that I used to separate egg yolks and whites (photo 1) is a very useful method when you have to separate many eggs. See Alexa’s Tip #1. on the bottom for details.

2-3. Put 6 egg yolks in a stand mixer bowl and start beating for about 15 seconds. Then, slowly add sugar A. while beating egg yolks at a medium speed.

4-6. Raise the speed to high and continue beat egg yolks and sugar until the color lightens (about 3-4 minutes). Add water and beat. Then, add olive oil and beat well

7-8. Add coffee extract and vanilla extract and beat until well mixed.9. Sift cake flour and baking powder. Add the flour mixture and beat at low speed until you no longer see any powder. Do not over mix. Set the mixture aside in a separate bowl.

Making meringue

10-12. Add 10 egg whites in a bowl and beat at medium speed. When it starts foamy, slowly add sugar B. while it is beating. Then, increase to high speed and continue beat. You want to have medium peak meringue for chiffon cake. If it’s your first time, beat a little bit longer until you have medium and high peak meringue, but make sure not to overbeat.
Folding & Pouring

13-15. Add half of the meringue to the batter and GENTLY fold in using a whisk or rubber spatula. Then, add the rest of the meringue and GENTLY fold in. I like using a whisk because it has less chances to kill air bubbles in meringue.

16. Prepare a tube pan by simply spraying water all around the inside and placing it on the baking pan. This must done before you pour the batter.17-18. Pour the batter into the tube pan up to 3/4 of the pan. Then, dip a chopstick (or any clean stick) in the batter and go around the pan once or twice to get the air out.

Baking & Cooling

19. Put the ENTIRE pan assemblage in the oven and bake for about 55 minutes. DO NOT OPEN the oven while it is baking.20. Take the pan out and test with a toothpick after 55 minutes. (You can open the oven now.) If it doesn’t come out clean, bake a few more minutes and check again. Repeat as necessary. When it is done, IMMEDIATELY turn the tube pan upside down and place it on a cooling rack.

Taking Out & Layering

21. Cool the cake completely before take it out of the pan.22. Run a metal spatula to around the inside of the pan to separate it from the cake. Remove the cake from the side of the tube pan.23. Run a metal spatula to separate the bottom of the tube pan from the cake

24. Put the cake board on top of the cake and flip it over.25. Remove the bottom of the tube pan.26. Slice the cake in three layers.

Decorating

27. Make Chantilly Cream (Whipped Cream) and apply two layers of Chantilly Cream.28. Put a thick layer of cream on the top and put enough in the center to cover the cake. Then, put the cream around the side. Make it pretty as you want! I sliced fresh strawberries about 1/4-inch thick and put around the cake. Also, sliced whole strawberries with the stem on and decorate them on top of the cake.

BOOK BINDING

MATERIALS:

News print

Thread

Glue

Scissor

Book clamp

Cutter

PROCEDURES:

step 1Prepare your materialsThis is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought…

step 2Cut and fold the pagesCut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures. A "signature" is a small packet of pages ne…

step 3Mark the signatures for bindingMark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge. Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use. In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried. Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20). Then measure the width of your head ma…

step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holesNow, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around). Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread. (you'll need a lot, but don…

step 5Cut and sew the bindingsThe bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so. The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest. Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* …

step 6Sew easy! (says the black kettle)Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second. This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the loop that's formed. From now on…

step 7Finishing the signaturesWhen you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this …

step 8Preparing the coversWhile the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it. You want: The width of the pages plus 1/4" The height of the pages plus 1/2" (Make these as square* as possible) Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover. It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the pages. Cut the paper…

step 9Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway)Cut the bookbinding cloth. it needs to be: height of the covers plus 3/4" or so amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch (so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide) center the cloth on the covers and spine piece, leaving a gap between them (to measure the gap, it's helpful to close the covers then hold them sti…

step 10Admire!Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself (with a little help!) You're amazing! Please comment with any questions, or clarifications. I hope that with all the pictures up, it will make the process a lot clearer, and inspire more people to join the ranks of hobby binders.

LANTERN MAKING

MATERIALS:

glue

japanese paper

scissor

wire

STEPS:

Decide on a shape for your lantern. Unless you are exceptionally skilled at making wire forms, you’ll need a guide. If you want a round lantern, find a ball or bowl of an appropriate size. If you want a polygonal lantern, you can easily make a form by mounting wooden dowels in your desired shape.

Make the wire form. Once you have your form, begin by carefully wrapping the wire once around the bottom end. Be sure to leave some free wire at the end. The amount will depend on the size of lantern you are making, but you can plan to leave about the amount it would take to go around the bottom of your wire frame one and a half times. Continue wrapping around your frame in a spiral until you get to the top.

Make the bases. Using the extra wire at the bottom, shape a base. Bend the wire at a ninety-degree angle starting where you began wrapping. Make another ninety-degree bend in the same direction a short distance away. This length will be the height of your base. Shape the wire into a mirror image of the shape at the bottom of your lantern. You may also want to reinforce the base with extra wires connecting the top and bottom of the base.

Repeat at the top. Make an identical base at the top, but leave some extra wire. There should be a piece of wire crossing directly from one side of the base to the other. You will hang your light here. You can bend another piece of wire into an arc so it attaches here. This will allow you to hang the lantern from a hook.

Check for stability. Are there any weak parts in your frame? You will now reinforce it by adding straight pieces of wire connecting the two bases. Solder them in place wherever they touch another wire.

Cut paper panels. If you used a polygonal frame, this will be relatively simple because your paper will roughly be rectangular. If you used a round frame, you'll have to figure out the proper shape. Decide how many panels you want to use. If you use 10 panels, at the top it will be 1/10th of the diameter of the top base, the middle will be 1/10th of the diameter of the middle and the bottom 1/10th of the diameter at the bottom. If you are unsure of your calculations, hold them up to the lantern to double check. Cut the panels slightly large in every direction so they can overlap.

Glue the first panel to the wire frame. Wrap the top edge around the edge of the top base and glue the paper to itself. Stretching the paper taut, continue to glue the paper around the wires all the way down to the bottom of the panel, where you will again wrap the paper around the edge of the base. Let dry completely.

Glue on the remaining panels. From here on, you will be able to glue at least one edge of each panel to the neighboring panel. Remember to wait until each panel is dry before adding another.

Decorate your lantern. Lanterns often have characters or designs painted onto the sides. If you want, paint on your design now. If you prefer not to have a design, that's fine too.

Add your light. You can choose a battery-powered light if you don't want wires to show or you can hang a simple bulb by attaching it to the top base and running the wire along whatever your lantern is suspended from.

CEMENTLESS SOIL BLOCKS

In view of the rising cost of cement, the Forest Products Research and Development Institute made an attempt to form building blocks out of soil and water alone or in combination with one or two other agri-forestry waste materials, such as rice hull, coconut coir dust and wood ash. Lime is used as a binder. Lime is found in large quantities in Rizal, Negros Occidental and Davao Oriental. Coconut coir and other materials are available almost nationwide.Materials:

Lime SoilCoconut coir SandRice hull Wood ashRice hull ash

Equipment:

1/4 inch mesh screenmoldshovel

Procedure:


1. Pulverize the soil and remove larger pieces with the use of a 1/4 inch wire mesh screen.

2. Mix together soil and any one or two of the agri-forestry wastes. Suggested combinations (in parts by volume) are:a. 3 soil + 1 coconut coirb. 3 soil + 1 rice hullc. 5 soil + 1 limed. 5 soil + 1/2 lime + 1/2 rice hull ashe. 5 soil + 1/2 lime + 1/2 wood ashf. 4 soil + 1 rice hull + 1 limeg. 21/2 soil + 21/2 sand + 1/2 lime + 1/2 wood ash

3. Form a hill out of the dry mixture (or of soil alone if a pure soil block is to be made) with a crater on top and add water.

4. Pour water slowly and with a shovel, mix the materials until a paste is formed. The paste should neither be too dry nor too wet so that during the molding process. The ingredients are wet enough to stay packed but not too wet to produce slump when the product is removed from the mold. The right mixture can be learned easily by experience.

5. Fill the mold with the mixture. Tamp very well and level off. Apply pressure using a manually-operated molding machine or a similar device.6. Dry the block in the shade for a few days and then sun dry for another few days

Technology and Livelihood Education


LAMP MAKING

MATERIALS:

LAMP
WIRE
CUTTER
BOLB
VOLT
KNOTS
ELECTRICAL TAPE

STEPS:

1. Prepare the piece so it will stand up where you want it and run the wire to power the bulb. This might involve mounting the item on some kind of stand or base and then drilling a hole through the lamp to run the wire. If you do not want to drill a hole for a wire or cannot drill it, you can still make the lamp and have the wire run on the outside of it from the socket to the plug.
· Wiring kits that include the lamp socket, lamp cord and plug are available from most hardware stores, or you can buy each part separately (may be necessary if you need a long cord). For most lamps, you will want to buy a #18 size cord.
· If wiring the plug and the lamp socket yourself, notice that the attachment points (usually two screws) are different colors. The white or shiny screw is the neutral and should go to the widest prong on the plug. The other screw is usually a darker color.



2. Mount the lamp socket base to your lamp. Usually it will mount to your lamp by way of a small threaded pipe. You must secure this small pipe to your lamp in some way; usually by drilling a hole and gluing or screwing the pipe into the lamp. They also sell long threaded pipes for lamps that can be run completely through the lamp and attached on both ends with a tightening bolt.



3. "Fish" the wire through the lamp. Sometimes a coat hanger that has been cut and straightened will help in "fishing" the wire through. It is important that all components of the lamp be mounted (except the top of the lamp socket shell) before you run the wire. If you are not going to fish the wire through the lamp, they do sell sockets that allow the lamp cord to come through the bottom part of the socket shell.



4. Attach the plug to the wire, making sure the "ridged" wire goes to the wider prong on the plug. Some plugs are made so you just stick the wire into a hole and close a lever. Some plugs require you to physically attach the wires to screws.
To attach wires to screw terminals, you must first take off a little insulation to expose the actual conducting wire. This is called "stripping" the wire. The hardware sells inexpensive wire strippers or you can do it with a knife. Just be sure you do not cut any of the wires inside the insulation.
· Notice that the wire in lamp cord consists of many fine wires for the two main conductors. After you strip the insulation off of the wires, twist these fine wires tight for each conductor. You should end up with two tightly wrapped conductors. The two conductors should be separated enough to allow them to be connected to the screw terminals.
· Notice that the two screw terminals tighten by turning them clockwise. The twisted tight conductors are wrapped around the screw for at least 180 degrees and the wrap goes in the direction of clockwise so that when the screws are tightened, it pulls the wire toward the screw, not away from it.
· Reassemble both the plug and the socket as necessary, making sure there is no excess wire sticking out that can short to the other conductor. If any of the wires from one conductor touch the other conductor, you will have a "short." You do not want that. It can shock you or cause a fire .



5. Attach a shade to your lamp. Shades attach several ways; but the most common is via a mounting bracket that goes below the lamp socket and a heavy wire harness (harp) that attaches to the mounting bracket and has a mount for a lampshade.